Introduction…………………………………………………………………………………3

Chapter I Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass

  1. 1. Teleut national costume..…………………………….5
  1. 2. Shor national costume…………………………….8

Chapter II Comparative analysis of the national costumes of the Shors and Teleuts…………………………………………………………………………………..12

Conclusion……………………………………………………………........14

Literature……………………………………………………………………………….16

Applications……………………………………………………………………………….

Introduction

In 2013, Kuzbass celebrated its 70th anniversary. They told us a lot about their native land, about the people living here. But I was more interested in the story about the indigenous inhabitants of the Kemerovo region. It turns out that they live next to us, and we know so little about their culture and creativity. I thought about the topic for a long time and chose “Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.” I am interested in this particular topic, because I want to find out what the national costume of the Teleuts was like in ancient times, to compare it with the Shor national costume. It is possible that their national clothes had a lot in common, or perhaps that each nation had its own unique costume, unlike any other.

And then I decided to find out what the clothes of these peoples looked like.

Target:

Study of the national clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.

Tasks:

During the work the following were used methods:

Analysis of information sources;

Comparison;

Generalization of the obtained data.

Each national group in Russia, no matter how small it may be, has the right to the existence and development of its traditions, language, rituals, customs and other elements of culture. The spiritual culture of the people and their way of life contribute to the preservation of their identity and uniqueness.

National clothing is a kind of chronicle of the historical development and artistic creativity of the people. Being one of the elements of material culture, it has always reflected not only ethnicity and geographical environment, but also the level of economic development, social and property status, and religious affiliation.

Chapter 1. CLOTHING OF INDIGENOUS RESIDENTS OF KUZBASS

  1. Teleut national costume

Teleuts - the indigenous inhabitants of our region - are direct descendants of the Turks. Currently Teleuts livein Belovsky and Novokuznetsk districts of the Kemerovo region. Once upon a time it was one of the most prosperous Turkic “tele” families. Their nomadic pastures extended from Altai to the Barabinsk steppes. They were the first among the indigenous peoples of our region to voluntarily accept Russian citizenship.

Teleut clothing was distinguished by its sophistication. It was divided into male and female, although some of its types were used regardless of the gender of the person. Also, clothing was divided into autumn-winter and spring-summer, casual and festive. The clothes of Teleducks have always been distinguished by their beauty.

The basis of everyday and festive clothing was a long tunic-shaped dress with a standing embroidered collar and a light fitted robe with a hand-woven belt. The belt was made of multi-colored threads. Having wrapped the sash around the body twice, tie it on the left with two knots and turn them inward. The ends of the belt hang in front, one longer than the other. There are beautiful tassels at the ends of the sash. Women always wore a belt, as dresses were long and wide. (Appendix 6)

The dresses were sewn with a lining on the shoulders, which covered the shoulder blades at the back and reached the chest at the front. A gusset was sewn under the armpits - a piece of material of a different color, shaped like a diamond. The hem on the inside was also hemmed with material of a different color, 4-5 cm wide. The sleeves tapered from the armhole to the cuffs. The cuffs were hemmed from the inside, usually with the same material as the gusset. (Annex 1)

An important decoration of a woman's dress was the collar, which had the shape of a stand. There were no turn-down collars. To make it stand, birch bark steamed in hot water was inserted inside according to its size. It does not rot, does not tear when washed and allows you to maintain its shape. Collars were hand-sewn from plain cloth, usually red, green, or blue. There were no black or white collars. Along the collar from each edge in the center, birch bark squares are sewn onto the cloth. On a festive or wedding dress, these squares are trimmed with “gold” or “silver” threads or floss. The squares are located on the collar with a downward angle, reminiscent of a rhombus. There is an odd number of them on the collar. (Appendix 5)

The wedding dress of a Teleut bride is especially beautiful. It is decorated with toshtok - a shirtfront made of red cloth. On both sides of the cut from top to bottom there are rectangles made of birch bark. Their number is unpaired 9 or 11. As on the collar, they are trimmed with “gold” or “silver” threads. From each rectangle on the right side comes an airy loop of black lace for fastening. A button is sewn on the left side of each rectangle. To ensure that the shirt front does not wrinkle and is always in shape, boiled birch bark is inserted inside to size. The lining is sewn on from colored chintz. The toshtok was kept separately from the dress; before putting on the dress, the toshtok was attached to the collar with several stitches. Festive dresses of Teleducks were made from very beautiful bright fabrics: satin, wool, brocade, knitwear with lurex, Chinese silk. Everyday dresses were made most often from chintz and cotton wool. All types of fabrics used by Teleuts in the second half of the 19th century. - early 20th century, were purchased.

Over the dress was worn a chiymek - made of velvet or blue cloth, a light cape made of silk or iridescent taffeta with a shawl collar, trimmed with gold or silver braid, embroidered with gold or silver thread, with rich brocade or silk tassels, except for white and black. In the place where they are attached, the chiymek is fastened with an openwork button. The collar of the chiymek was brightly colored. It could be woven, made of fabric with embroidered and woven patterns in the form of multi-colored stripes, or with sewn strips of brocade or gold thread. To make the hem of the dress visible, it, like the body, was made 30 cm shorter. (Appendix 2)

Underwear consisted of a shirt and pants, which were worn under the dress. The shirt had a loose fit, was open in front, and lined with buttons and loops along the edges. Champar pants were made from chintz or linen. Their cut was similar to the cut of men's pants. The difference was that the trouser legs were made very short, they did not exceed 40 cm in length.

In addition, the Teleut national costume includes the telen - the light outerwear of the Teleuts, which is a short caftan, tailored to the waist, with a low collar. The calf is sewn from woolen fabric or satin in black, blue colors, they also use Boston, and the calf is lined with velvet.

Another type of outerwear is ochkor - a silk robe with lining. The length of the robe is ankle-length, fastens with 1 button. Married women wore a robe over a fur coat.

Warm outerwear was varied. In the 1940s, a warm quilted sleeveless “bathing jacket” was very rare; by now it has been almost universally forgotten. It was worn by girls and young women. They sewed a swimsuit from red calico with a cotton lining. They wore it wrapped around the left hem, fastening it in the middle with 1 button.

Teleducks also have very beautiful coats - tone. Tone is winter clothing made of sheepskin, sable, red fox, squirrel, topped with Boston and trimmed along the hem, sleeves, and sides with otter fur. Among the Teleuts, otter fur was considered valuable and the most wearable fur; it was fastened with 1 button. (Appendix 4)

In cool weather, women and men wore syrmal. Syrmal is a demi-season quilted coat, covered with silk on top, with a bright colored lining, stuffed with cotton wool, trimmed along the cuffs of the sleeves, hem and sides with velvet. The length of the syrmal was shorter than the shirt. They gird the syrmal with a sash. (Appendix 3)

Due to the fact that the Teleuts had a custom that prohibited a married woman from appearing bareheaded in front of her father-in-law and her husband’s older brothers, even at home, headdresses played an important role in her life. The hat is a festive headdress. The hat was cut from four wedges, decorated with gold and silver braid, which was sewn onto the seams; a braid in the shape of the letter “P” was sewn on the front and back. The lower edge of the hat was trimmed with otter and even sable fur. (Appendix 8) The inside of the hat is lined with young lamb fur. The top of the hat was folded to the right when put on. Another type of holiday hat - tagaya - had a rounded shape, the base was made of fabric, quilted, and embroidered with gold thread. The lapel was trimmed with velvet. On the top of the head there was a brush of red or blue flowers. Red represents the sun, blue represents the sky. This type of hat dates back to the 19th century.

A headscarf is an everyday and festive headdress for Teleducks. Large woolen scarves are especially prized. The scarf was tied in different ways. First, it was folded in half diagonally, one corner was placed on the back, the other two were tied in a knot at the back of the head, or thrown over the forehead and twisted into a tourniquet. (Appendix 9)

As for footwear, Teleut fashionistas wore leather shoes (charyk) with soft soles, with an insole, and without heels. The shoes were decorated with embroidery. The top of the shoe was dark in color, the sole was light. (Appendix 7)

Teleut women loved jewelry. The most common decorations were earrings and hair ornaments - small braids decorated with shells. Ribbons, shells, rings, and coins were woven into the braids. In a woman's costume, braided jewelry is an important element.

Over the course of two centuries of contact between Teleuts and Russians, great changes took place in their homes, clothing, and way of life. The men's national costume has completely fallen out of use. Teleut men began to dress the same as Russians. High boots, blue or white, linen trousers with a drawstring near the stomach, white or colorful shirts made of homespun linen to the knees, sheepskin fur coats or kaftans of Russian cut. Pointed hats were worn. Unlike men's clothing, traditional women's clothing was preserved among middle-aged and older Teleduts and as wedding clothing among young people. All this gives hope that Teleut clothing will not disappear soon.

  1. 2. Shor national costume

The Shors are forest settled tribes who previously lived isolated from each other along the valleys of numerous mountain rivers and tributaries. They are skilled hunters and fishermen. The Russians called them Kuznetsk Tatars - for their ability to smelt iron and make weapons, cauldrons, axes and other objects from it. From them came the name of our region - Kuznetsk land. The Shors mainly live in the Tashtagol region and Gornaya Shoria.

The clothing of the Shors was less sophisticated than that of the Teleuts. The material used was mainly kendyr canvas, which women wove from hemp fibers on a homemade loom. Clothes were made by hand, mainly from purchased materials. Women's clothing was richly decorated with embroidery. There was no special ritual or festive clothing. The traditional clothing of the Shors consisted of a shirt-dress (kunek), trousers (pants), an apron (shabur), hats and shoes.

The shirt dress could be of various colors, most often blue or black. For its manufacture, chintz, calico, and satin were used. It was girded with a sash (of chickens) with keys to barns and boxes tied to it. In cold weather, this type of clothing was worn under a robe, and in the summer it was the only clothing. At the end of the 19th - first half of the 20th centuries, with the advent of purchased underwear, such a shirt began to serve as a dress. The dress was most often long, reaching to the toes, and fastened at the chest with small buttons. The hems of the dress were trimmed with ribbons of black material. The dress was sewn using wedges in the cut. (Appendix 10) An apron was put on over the dress. Shor dresses have five types, identified on the basis of museum collections in the cities of Tashtagol, Tomsk, Omsk, Kemerovo, Novokuznetsk.

1 type The traditional Shor shirt, length to the toes, was sewn with oblique side gussets from the armhole to the hem.

Type 2 By the beginning of the 20th century, with the penetration of urban culture into Shor life, dresses with a fitted silhouette, turn-down collars, frills, and ruffles appeared.

Type 3 The Teleut culture influenced the clothing of the Shors living near Kuznetsk. Thus, Shor women’s shirts made from purchased fabrics completely replicate the cut of Teleut ones.

Type 4 Ethnocultural contacts with the Khakass contributed to the appearance of Shor shirts for men and women with shoulder pads, of Khakass cut.

Type 5 Under the influence of the Russian old-timer population and immigrants from the northern provinces of Russia, elements characteristic of clothing of the Northern Russian type appear in traditionally cut shirts. The sleeve at the top and at the cuffs gathers into small folds. The hem above the wide frill is decorated with a wide ribbon.

Women's pants were practically no different from men's, they were only slightly shorter. Their cut was similar to the cut of pants of other Turkic tribes of the Mongol peoples of Siberia.

The outerwear of the Shors was limited to a short canvas robe. It was both festive and everyday clothing of the Shors. The robe had a tunic-like cut, oblique wedges were sewn into the sides, the sleeves were wide, tapered towards the hands. A woman's robe was sometimes enlivened with embroidery more abundantly than a man's robe. It was trimmed along the hem and sleeve cuffs with the simplest rectilinear or curvilinear ornament. The robe had no lining. (Appendix 11) He, like the dress, had chickens. The smell of the robe was left-handed. Sometimes multi-colored pieces of fabric and buttons were sewn to the shelves at chest level. Women's clothing was decorated with embroidery from narrow strips of fabric along the cuffs, hem and left side, which covered the right side when putting on a robe. The stripes were made in the form of straight and zigzag stripes. The gates were sometimes tightly lined with rows of cowrie shells. Dresses and robes were decorated with various collars, some of which resemble the collars of Teleut dresses. The collar - moidrak, chaga or chola - is the main and only decoration of the shabyr. It is a strip of black cloth or corduroy, with a stand-up collar that goes down to the chest. The collars were embroidered with garus or wool of two or three colors, mainly red and yellow. They were decorated with mother-of-pearl buttons or rhombuses made of beads or birch bark.

The headdresses of the Shors were mainly borrowed from the Russians. They were both purchased and homemade - from homemade canvas, leather or birch bark. Headdresses are represented by two types of hats, shawls and scarves. Now there are two types of hats. (Appendix 12.15) The first type is made of black satin with a flat top. The band is made of one piece of trapezoidal fabric, widened at the top, and the front part is pushed forward overhangingly. The bottom and top of the band are decorated with stripes of colored chintz. Chintz Puus ribbons are sewn to the back bottom of the band. The second hat has a rounded crown, the fur outside is lined with green velvet. A strip of homespun canvas is sewn along the edge. At the beginning of the 20th century, Shor women tied their heads with a scarf (plat), folded in half at an angle, with the ends tied at the back of the head. The scarf was often red and yellow.

The shoes of the Shors were boots or slippers (charyk). Leather boots (oduk, charyk) with long tops, which the poor made from kendyr, were also used. (Appendix 15) Instead of foot wraps, the legs were wrapped in soft sedge grass. At the beginning of the 20th century. Shor fashionistas switched to store-bought, factory-made shoes.

Winter clothing shorok consists of sheepskin short fur coats, kaftans or fur coats (ton) or chyncha. Women's belts looked exactly the same as men's.

Women's costume was enlivened with homemade or purchased jewelry - ear, braid, neck, forehead, as well as rings and rings. The materials used were beads, cowrie shells, copper wire, wool and silk threads, buttons, silver coins, horsehair, etc.

Ear jewelry. Among them, first of all, earrings with pendants made of threads of beads, cowrie shells and silver stand out. In addition, there were pendants made of woolen threads woven into thin cords, with tassels, beads and buttons at the ends.

Shor women braided their hair into two braids, the ends of which were connected by several rows of beads that hung freely in a chain below the waist. Braids were also woven into the braids, made of horsehair and studded with cowrie shells, beads, and small copper bells. Several strands of beads were placed around the neck. (Appendix 17)

The peculiarities of the traditional clothing of the Shors are explained by their way of life associated with hunting, sedentary cattle breeding, primitive agriculture and a relatively low level of socio-economic development.

Since the 20th century, an active process of borrowing outerwear, hats and underwear from Russians began, which began to be worn under the influence of urban culture. (Appendix 16) The traditional costume has now been preserved almost nowhere. Only men, hunters in taiga villages, continue to wear oduk boots made from their own leather. In everyday life, they gave way to factory-made shoes: felt boots, boots, boots, etc.

Chapter 2. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF NATIONAL COSTUMES OF SHORS AND TELEUTS

The historical ancestors of both the Shors and Teleuts are the Turks. These peoples lived in close contact for many centuries, so we see the same elements of clothing, cut, similar dresses and robes.

Upon careful analysis, we found similarities:

Use of wedges in cutting a dress;

Tunic cut of the dress;

The presence of collars;

Decoration of dresses with rhombuses made of birch bark, mother-of-pearl buttons, and beads.

Both wore scarves and hats, which differed only in color and decoration. Both peoples wore kuri belts and wore fur coats (ton) in winter. The jewelry and shoes were very similar.

But at the same time, we saw differences: in the women's national clothing of the Teleuts there is neither an apron nor a headdress - shawls, and the hats were different from the Shor ones.

We presented our observations in the form of a table.

Table 1

Comparison of suits

Name of clothing

among the Teleuts

among the Shors

Dress

Dress - shirt (kunek)

Dickey (toshtok)

Apron (shabur)

Cape (chiymek)

Shirt

Pants (champar)

Pants (pants)

Kaftan (calf)

Kaftan

Silk robes (ochkor)

Canvas robe

Coat (syrmal)

Fur coat (tone)

Fur coat (ton, chyncha)

Short fur coat

Hat (tagaya)

A cap

Handkerchief

Scarf, shawl

Boots (charyk)

Boots, boots (charyk)

Sash

Sash (chickens)

Decorations

Decorations

Conclusion

The purpose of my work was to study the national clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.

Tasks:

  1. Collect information about the folk costume of the Shors and Teleuts.
  2. Identify the differences between Shor and Teleut costumes.
  3. Create an album “Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.”

I faced many difficulties. And the first was that in the city there is either no or very little literature for studying the folk costumes of the Teleuts and Shors. Therefore, we took the main material from the Internet. However, the collected material allows us to draw the following conclusions.

The historical ancestors of both the Shors and Teleuts are the Turks. These peoples lived in close communication for many centuries, so it is natural to borrow elements of clothing, cut, etc. Upon careful analysis, you can find similarities, for example: the use of wedges in the cut of a dress, a tunic-like pattern, the presence of collars, the decoration of dresses with rhombuses from birch bark, mother-of-pearl buttons, beads. Both wore scarves and hats, which differed only in color and decoration. Both peoples wore kuri belts and wore fur coats in winter. The jewelry and shoes were very similar.

The clothing of the Teleuts, in comparison with the clothing of the Shors, was distinguished by great sophistication. It was and remains very beautiful and more diverse. But we also saw that in the women's national clothing of the Teleuks there is neither an apron nor a headdress - shawls, and the hats were different from the Shor ones.

The men's national costume of the Shors and Teleuts has completely fallen out of use. At the same time, the national characteristics of Teleut women's clothing have been largely preserved, because national clothing and its elements are a kind of chronicle of the historical development and artistic creativity of the people. Each of the peoples managed to preserve their individuality and originality.

List of sources used

  1. Katsyuba D.V. History of Kuzbass. Tutorial. - Kemerovo book. ed., 1983.- 9-16 p.

    Member of the Union of Designers of Russia, director of the Kemerovo company "Kamena" Victoria Agafonova, together with the regional public organization " Shor national-cultural autonomy of the Kemerovo region» developed a model of the national women's Shor costume.

    “Shorianka” is a floor-length dress made of red wool blend fabric, the long sleeves of which are trimmed with Siberian sable fur. The dress is hand-painted with gold-colored paints and inlaid with black and gold rhinestones. Moreover, the drawing was made based on the tattoos of the Ukok princess. Earrings, bracelets, neck and forehead decorations are made of beads.

    The press service added that the Shor national-cultural autonomy of the region will present this costume at the XI international exhibition-fair “ Treasures of the North. Masters and artists of Russia-2016", which will be held in Moscow from April 28 to May 2, 2016.

    Victoria Agafonova plans to create a whole collection of national Shor outfits.

    NGS.NEWS
    Photo ako.ru

    Latest news from the Kemerovo region on the topic:
    The national costume of the Shors with sable fur was presented in Kuzbass (photo)

    A modern Shor national costume “Shorianka” has been developed in Kuzbass- Kemerovo

    NIA-Kuzbass Victoria Agafonova, member of the Union of Designers of Russia, director of the Kemerovo company "Kamena" together with the regional public organization "Shor National-Cultural Autonomy of the Kemerovo Region" ra
    14:51 01.04.2016 KuzzBas.Ru

    The national costume of the Shors with sable fur was presented in Kuzbass (photo)- Kemerovo

    In Kuzbass, a Shor national costume with sable fur and gold rhinestones was developed, the press service of the regional administration reports.
    14:48 01.04.2016 Ngs42.Ru

    Media resource "Virtual Research Institute of Culture of Indigenous Minorities of the Siberian Federal District" created within the framework of the Federal Target Program "Culture of Russia (2012-2018)" with the support of the Ministry of Culture of the Russian Federation (state contract 6269-01-41/14-14 from 12/19/2014)

    Rice. 1. Woven and knitted ornament

    Fig.2. Embroidery ornament

    Ornament is a decorative pattern formed by rhythmic alternation of geometric (dots, lines, circles, etc.) and figurative (zoomorphic, anthropomorphic, etc.) elements. Since ancient times, among different peoples, ornaments have served not only as decoration, but also as protection from evil spirits. Embroideries were made on mittens, stockings, and shirt collars, which performed a protective magical function.

    The Shor ornament is predominantly geometric in nature (see Fig. 1.). It consists of stripes, horizontal lines, zigzag, covered with a grid or inscribed triangles, squares, diagonally intersected squares, chevrons, diamonds, stars, crosses, oblique lines, grids, alternating light and dark rectangles, various patterns made up of broken lines .

    Fig.3. Embroidery samples

    Fig.4. Types of seams

    Along with rectilinear patterns, there are also curvilinear patterns: circles, circles with a dot in the center, arcs, ovals, “waves,” simple rosettes (Fig. 2, 5).

    When making woven belts, a geometric pattern was chosen: this is due to weaving technology, which makes it very difficult to achieve smooth wavy lines.

    Fig.5. Embroidery patterns on Shor clothing

    A more complex ornament on clothing can be created through appliqué (sewn onto textiles, fur, leather of ornamental elements made from materials of different textures and colors), sewing on cowrie shells and metal elements. Gold braid and cords were used to decorate festive clothing. But the main way to decorate clothes is embroidery. As a rule, counted stitches were used: painting or half-cross; set, counted satin stitch, bias stitch, cross stitch, tapestry stitch (Fig. 4). For embroidery, woolen threads of pure, bright colors were used: red, blue, green.


    ORIGIN OF THE SHORTS AND TELEUTS The Shors and Teleuts are the most ancient inhabitants of the Kuznetsk land. By their origin they belong to nomadic Turkic-speaking tribes. Nowadays they are settled throughout Western Siberia. The majority live in the Kemerovo region. The Shors mainly live in the Tashtagol region and Gornaya Shoria. Teleuts are most common in the Belovsky and Guryevsky districts of the Kemerovo region.


    NATIONAL CLOTHING Why is it important to study national costumes Why is it important to study national costumes Teleut national women's costume Teleut national women's costume Shor national women's costume The similarity of the national costumes of the Shors and Teleuts The similarity of the national costumes of the Shors and Teleuts Costume similarity table


    Why is it important to study national costumes National clothing is a kind of chronicle of the historical development and artistic creativity of the people. Being one of the elements of material culture, it has always reflected not only ethnicity and geographical environment, but also the level of economic development, social and property status, and religious affiliation..


    Teleut national women's costume The clothing of the Teleuts, in comparison with their Shorian and Kumandin neighbors, was distinguished by great sophistication. It was divided into male and female, although some of its types were used regardless of the gender of the person. Also, clothing was divided into autumn-winter and spring-summer, casual and festive. Teleduck clothes were and still are beautiful. The basis of everyday and festive clothing was a long tunic-shaped dress with a standing embroidered collar and a light fitted robe with a hand-woven belt. The belt was made of multi-colored threads. Women always wore a belt, tying it on the left side. The width of the belt was about 3-5 cm, sometimes up to 12 cm, the length was up to 2.5-3 cm. Dresses were sewn with a lining on the shoulders that covered the shoulder blades at the back and reached the chest in front . A gusset was sewn under the armpits - a piece of material of a different color, shaped like a diamond, measuring about 10x10cm. The hem on the inside was also hemmed with material of a different color, 4-5 cm wide. The sleeves tapered from the armhole to the cuffs. The cuffs were hemmed from the inside, usually with the same material as the gusset.




    Shor national women's costume The clothing of the Shors was less sophisticated than that of the Teleducks. It was made by hand mainly from purchased materials. The material was cut out with a sharp knife, the parts were sewn together using an awl and a needle with strong kendyr threads. The Shors did not differentiate between the cut of women's and men's clothing. Unless women's clothing was more abundantly decorated with embroidery. There was no special ritual or festive clothing. The traditional clothing of the Shors consisted of a shirt-dress (kunyok), trousers (pants), an apron (shabur), hats and shoes.


    Shor jewelry The Shor jewelry was very popular: earrings made of steel wire in the form of a half ring, from which threads with beads or shells were hung, thin rings or copper rings with stones, braids and necklaces. Shor women's braid


    Similarity between the national costumes of the Shors and Teleuts Upon careful analysis, you can find similarities, for example: the use of wedges in the cut of the dress, a tunic-like pattern, the presence of collars, the decoration of dresses with rhombuses made of birch bark, mother-of-pearl buttons, and beads. Both wore scarves and hats, which differed only in color and decoration. Both peoples wore kuri belts and wore fur coats (ton) in winter. The jewelry and shoes were very similar.



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