Lesson objectives:

• To acquaint students with the main types of ornaments of the Shors;
• Develop the ability to apply your knowledge acquired in class in practice;
• Instill aesthetic taste and love for beauty.

It is necessary to prepare handouts: cards with dots, broken lines, straight lines, etc. On the board are diagrams of the collar patterns of the Shors.

Schemes 1.

Northern peoples have their own idea of ​​beauty. A beautiful woman is, first of all, a needlewoman, an efficient and economical housewife, and a caring mother.

On long winter evenings, women sewed clothes for the whole family. Not a single piece of leather, fabric or fur was lost, everything was put into a bag for needlework - tutchan. The tutchan could also contain “a find for sewers” ​​- a needle case. Even when going to a camp or to the forest, a woman does not part with the tutchan; he may be needed at any moment. It is impossible to imagine a Shor woman doing nothing; her hands are always busy. And there is probably no more complex and painstaking work than sewing clothes. The woman is also the bearer of ornamental traditions.

Ornament is a powerful layer of today’s culture of the Shor people. It is rich and multifaceted. By creating certain elements of ornament, individual motifs dating back to the ancient times of the northern peoples - the cult of fire, various natural phenomena - man deified many objects, worshiped them, feeling like a part of this big world. Among the Shor people, clothing, hunting tools, utensils, smoking pipes, knife covers, bags and other household items were decorated with ornaments. The ornament was applied to objects made of fabric, wood, birch bark, bones, horns, leather, etc.

Ornamental motifs on various objects are divided into 3 groups:

• geometric;
• vegetable;
• animals.

Geometric patterns are clearly visible on women's belts. In geometric patterns, figures such as triangles, rectangles, zigzags, circles, and simply lines with line symmetry were widely used.

Ornament is part of folk, decorative and applied arts. It is used to decorate buildings, clothing, and household items.

The ornament can be drawn, painted, embroidered, woven, weaved in the form of lace, knitted or crocheted. Before we embroider an ornament, we need to learn how to draw it. Because Dots and lines are often found in the ornament; they can be combined and combined. By connecting straight, broken, and curved lines, we obtain ornamental elements. (Work with handouts diagram 2).

When a pattern is constructed on the stencil diagram, you can select the color of the floss threads to perform embroidery in color.

Schemes 2.

a) stencil diagrams

b) sketches of the drawing

c) ready-made patterns

Schemes 3. Embroidery.

When making an ornament, counted stitches are most often used: painting or half-cross stitch, cast-on stitch, counted stitch, bias stitch, cross stitch, tapestry.

Embroidery can be done on grosgrain ribbon, canvas ribbon and then used as embroidery for clothing, a bracelet, or a bookmark.

“Program of spiritual and moral development” - Education. Literary reading. Extracurricular and extracurricular educational work. Main directions. Cooperative activity. Section "Geography". Recommendations. The world. Objectives of aesthetic education. Examples from Russian and foreign literature. Educational texts. Nurturing values ​​for spiritual and moral development.

“OOP Federal State Educational Standard of Higher Professional Education” - Determination of the composition of educational topics. Algorithm for determining special competencies of a bachelor. Table for the formation of subject modules. Contents of disciplines. We draw up a table-matrix of competencies. Realizes social significance. Traditional structuring of a specialist training program. Graduate competency model.

“Basic School Development Program” - Successful adaptation of students. Increasing the coverage of children with systemic extracurricular activities. Main objectives of the program. High-quality assimilation of state education standards. Main projects of the program. Increasing the share of graduates entering universities. Educational potential of the educational process.

“Class hour “Career Guidance”” - TV show. Opportunity to make new friends. Embroidery kit. Calculate the number of points. New professions. Good knowledge. Free time. New year's night. Class hour on career guidance. Survey results. Chimney sweep Restlessness. Opportunities to have an interesting profession. A true treasure for people.

“Manuals for Patriotic Education” - Illustrations are made on coated paper. The appendix contains extracts from the most important state and departmental documents in the field of education. “We live in Russia” N. G. Zelenova, L. E. Osipova The manual offers a system of working with children 6-7 years old on civic-patriotic education. "State symbols of the Russian Federation."

“Social teacher" - Roles of a social teacher. What we expect. Working with families (guardianship, foster care, foster care). Social and psychological service. School social passport. The purpose of the activity of a social teacher. Children missing classes without good reason. Social help. Preventive activities. Activities.

There are a total of 2329 presentations in the topic

Media resource "Virtual Research Institute of Culture of Indigenous Minorities of the Siberian Federal District" created within the framework of the Federal Target Program “Culture of Russia (2012-2018)” with the support of the Ministry of Culture of the Russian Federation (state contract 6269-01-41/14-14 from 12/19/2014)

Fig.1. Women's Shor suit. From the collections of the Museum “Archaeology, Ethnography and Ecology of Siberia” of Kemerovo State University.

Fig.2. Models of national Shor clothing (photo courtesy of O.A. Solovyanova).

In works of oral folk art it is often mentioned that a prosperous person is one who has good clothes; a happy person is one who has a second set of clothes in reserve, and one who has no luck in life is one whose body is chilled by the wind through worn-out clothes.

Men's and women's clothing were almost the same; they consisted of a shirt, pants and a robe with embroidery at the collar, on the cuffs and hem. In winter, several robes were worn. Shoes were leather boots with long tops. Women wore scarves, men wore hats. A characteristic feature of the Shor women's dress was the presence of appliqués - two strips of contrasting fabric that are sewn across the dress in different places.

Particular attention is paid to the material that determined the purpose of winter and summer clothing. If everyday clothing was distinguished by simplicity and practicality, then women's festive clothing was very complex, multi-component, with an abundance of various decorations, with a number of techniques for draping the figure. The multi-composition of folk clothing determines the ideal of beauty to which a woman (girl) corresponds in the folk environment, i.e. clothes form her plastic image.

Everyday dresses are made of chintz, satin, flannel; for festive dresses they use expensive silks, decorating them with plain stripes of a different material. These products are rich in color.

Fig.3. Modern stylization of the Shor national women's costume (photo by I.A. Sechina).

Fig.4. Leather boots. From the funds of the museum of the Children's Ethnographic Association "Tazykhan" (Novokuznetsk).

Women's traditional costume consisted of a blue calico shirt “kunek”, length to the toes, fastened on the chest with small buttons. The floors were covered with strips of black fabric. The calico blue trousers had no slit. The chest of a plush lined "pantek" robe was decorated with two rows of cowrie shells "chalanabash" or embroidered with a geometric pattern of colored threads. The predominance of blue and black colors in clothing is noted. On their feet were leather galoshes “charyk” or boots “uduk”.

Traditional style - front and back with yoke; sleeves – long; a quadrangle made of the same or another fabric is inserted under the arm; Large folds are made on the back under the yoke. The collar is usually simple, like a shirt. The collar is fastened with buttons. The cuffs on the sleeves are often decorated with a pattern, and the hem is edged with fabric. Over the dress they put on a robe made of cotton fabric and richly ornamented with appliques from another material.

One of the most ornamented products is women's swinging clothing, saki, robes. Among the Shors, light outerwear is represented by a short kendyr robe, named after the plant from whose fibers the fabric was made. Its cut is straight, the floors are converging, the back and shelves are made of one or two straight panels thrown over, and slanting wedges are sewn into the sides. This robe is sewn without lining, knee length. It wraps around itself when belted with the left hollow point up, but it is also worn wide open. The collar, and sometimes its cuffs, are covered with some kind of material with very simple embroidery with woolen threads.

A married woman should not walk around with her head uncovered, even at home, so as not to appear in this form to her husband’s older male relatives and not to violate the old custom. Usually the head was tied with a scarf, folded into a triangle: one corner falls on the back, and the other two are tied in a knot at the back of the head. Another way: the ends of the scarf are not tied at the back, but are thrown over the forehead, where they are twisted into a rope. The scarf is usually calico with a pattern measuring 80x90 cm or 65x86 cm. Red and yellow colors predominated in the pattern of the scarves. On holidays, people wear an ancient bail hat trimmed with sable fur.

Rice. 5. Hunter's robe. From the funds of the museum of the Children's Ethnographic Association "Tazykhan" (Novokuznetsk).

Fig.6. Trim of a woman's dress. From the funds of the museum of the Children's Ethnographic Association "Tazykhan" (Novokuznetsk).

Men's clothing, just like the women's one, consisted of a shirt (kunyok), pants (chembar, trousers) and a robe (shabur) with embroidery at the collar, on the cuffs or hem. Strips of blue or green fabric were sewn onto the shoulders.

A men's shirt is made from the same cotton fabric as women's dresses and robes, the yoke is decorated with a small pattern or stripes of another fabric, and an ornament is passed along the hem with appliqué on the fabric. In general, the tradition of adding all kinds of decorations to the appliqué has become established. Among them are beads, multi-colored beads, buttons of various shapes and sizes, coins, pieces of fur and others. Men's hats are varied: caps made of fabric, leather or birch bark; round canvas hats in the shape of a cap with a round crown, gathered into ruffles on the top of the head, sometimes embroidered; hunters wore a kind of bonnet with strings; in winter - fur hats. A mandatory element of men's clothing was a “nanchik” pouch.

In winter, several robes were worn. They were worn, wrapped from left to right and girded with a long chicken belt, which was woven on a homemade loom from wool of several colors.

The southern Shors made clothes from kendyr (homespun canvas made from hemp or nettle fibers), the northern ones - more often from purchased fabrics, the wealthy wore purchased clothes, in winter - sheepskin coats with fur inside, covered with fabric. Shoes were leather boots (oduk, charyk) with long tops (for the poor - from kendyr). Instead of foot wraps, the legs were wrapped in soft grass “azagat”.

Ordinary people did not have any special festive or ritual clothing, but the shaman’s costume differed in a number of details.

Shor shaman costume. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. shamans performed rituals in ordinary clothes. Male shamans performed rituals in a summer robe, a caftan made of black material, which was girded with a green or blue girdle (a white girdle was not allowed!). The head was tied: men - with a white or red scarf, women - with a scarf, the ends in front of the forehead. Sometimes, instead of a scarf, there was a hat made of owl skin with wings or a cloth hat in the form of a cap with eagle owl feathers sewn onto the top of the head. In later times, shamans wore specially made costumes during rituals, which were richly decorated with shamanic attributes: bells, plaits, bird feathers. Various types of pendants and overlays were found on shamanic costumes:

• flat metal rectangular pendants, ovals and rings;
• bells, bells;
• cowrie shells or copper buttons, which were firmly attached or suspended from clothing.

These rattling and ringing elements were designed to scare away evil spirits.

On shamanic clothing there were knots or bumps, which were made from twisted rope, cord or gold thread and connected with straight threads of the same material. A large black rope hangs from the left shoulder to the ground, at the upper end of which a head and a white mouth (like a snake) are depicted; 4 legs and a forked tail. This is a symbol of a monster from the underworld. A large green rope hangs from the right shoulder to the ground - a symbol of an assistant. The cord depicts: at the top – a head with owl feathers, a copper eye; below are legs and tail made of red material. Two bunches of golden eagle feathers were sewn onto the shoulder, as if a shaman was flying to the “seventh heaven”. On the back, below the collar, 9 dolls with eagle owl feathers are sewn, below - bells (60-90 pieces) and iron rings with pendants. There were also 9 bundles of tourniquets hanging down to the ground on my back. 9 flagella are sewn in front along the chest line and along the waist.

Introduction…………………………………………………………………………………3

Chapter I Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass

1. 1. Teleut national costume..…………………………….5

1. 2. Shor national costume…………………………….8

Chapter II Comparative analysis of the national costumes of the Shors and Teleuts…………………………………………………………………………………..12

Conclusion……………………………………………………………........14

Literature……………………………………………………………………………….16

Applications……………………………………………………………………………….

Introduction

In 2013, Kuzbass celebrated its 70th anniversary. They told us a lot about their native land, about the people living here. But I was more interested in the story about the indigenous inhabitants of the Kemerovo region. It turns out that they live next to us, and we know so little about their culture and creativity. I thought about the topic for a long time and chose “Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.” I am interested in this particular topic, because I want to find out what the national costume of the Teleuts was like in ancient times, to compare it with the Shor national costume. It is possible that their national clothes had a lot in common, or perhaps that each nation had its own unique costume, unlike any other.

And then I decided to find out what the clothes of these peoples looked like.

Target:

Study of the national clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.

Tasks:

During the work the following were used methods:

Analysis of information sources;

Comparison;

Generalization of the obtained data.

Each national group in Russia, no matter how small it may be, has the right to the existence and development of its traditions, language, rituals, customs and other elements of culture. The spiritual culture of the people and their way of life contribute to the preservation of their identity and uniqueness.

National clothing is a kind of chronicle of the historical development and artistic creativity of the people. Being one of the elements of material culture, it has always reflected not only ethnicity and geographical environment, but also the level of economic development, social and property status, and religious affiliation.

Chapter 1. CLOTHING OF INDIGENOUS RESIDENTS OF KUZBASS

1. Teleut national costume

Teleuts - the indigenous inhabitants of our region - are direct descendants of the Turks. Currently Teleuts livein Belovsky and Novokuznetsk districts of the Kemerovo region. Once upon a time it was one of the most prosperous Turkic “tele” families. Their nomadic pastures extended from Altai to the Barabinsk steppes. They were the first among the indigenous peoples of our region to voluntarily accept Russian citizenship.

Teleut clothing was distinguished by its sophistication. It was divided into male and female, although some of its types were used regardless of the gender of the person. Also, clothing was divided into autumn-winter and spring-summer, casual and festive. The clothes of Teleducks have always been distinguished by their beauty.

The basis of everyday and festive clothing was a long tunic-shaped dress with a standing embroidered collar and a light fitted robe with a hand-woven belt. The belt was made of multi-colored threads. Having wrapped the sash around the body twice, tie it on the left with two knots and turn them inward. The ends of the belt hang in front, one longer than the other. There are beautiful tassels at the ends of the sash. Women always wore a belt, as dresses were long and wide. (Appendix 6)

The dresses were sewn with a lining on the shoulders, which covered the shoulder blades at the back and reached the chest at the front. A gusset was sewn under the armpits - a piece of material of a different color, shaped like a diamond. The hem on the inside was also hemmed with material of a different color, 4-5 cm wide. The sleeves tapered from the armhole to the cuffs. The cuffs were hemmed from the inside, usually with the same material as the gusset. (Annex 1)

An important decoration of a woman’s dress was the collar, which had the shape of a stand. There were no turn-down collars. To make it stand, birch bark steamed in hot water was inserted inside according to its size. It does not rot, does not tear when washed and allows you to maintain its shape. Collars were hand-sewn from plain cloth, usually red, green, or blue. There were no black or white collars. Along the collar from each edge in the center, birch bark squares are sewn onto the cloth. On a festive or wedding dress, these squares are trimmed with “gold” or “silver” threads or floss. The squares are located on the collar with a downward angle, reminiscent of a rhombus. There is an odd number of them on the collar. (Appendix 5)

The wedding dress of a Teleut bride is especially beautiful. It is decorated with toshtok - a shirtfront made of red cloth. On both sides of the cut from top to bottom there are rectangles made of birch bark. Their number is unpaired 9 or 11. As on the collar, they are trimmed with “gold” or “silver” threads. From each rectangle on the right side comes an airy loop of black lace for fastening. A button is sewn on the left side of each rectangle. To ensure that the shirt front does not wrinkle and is always in shape, boiled birch bark is inserted inside to size. The lining is sewn on from colored chintz. The toshtok was kept separately from the dress; before putting on the dress, the toshtok was attached to the collar with several stitches. Festive dresses of Teleducks were made from very beautiful bright fabrics: satin, wool, brocade, knitwear with lurex, Chinese silk. Everyday dresses were made most often from chintz and cotton wool. All types of fabrics used by Teleuts in the second half of the 19th century. - early 20th century, were purchased.

Over the dress was worn a chiymek - made of velvet or blue cloth, a light cape made of silk or iridescent taffeta with a shawl collar, trimmed with gold or silver braid, embroidered with gold or silver thread, with rich brocade or silk tassels, except for white and black. In the place where they are attached, the chiymek is fastened with an openwork button. The collar of the chiymek was brightly colored. It could be woven, made of fabric with embroidered and woven patterns in the form of multi-colored stripes, or with sewn strips of brocade or gold thread. To make the hem of the dress visible, it, like the body, was made 30 cm shorter. (Appendix 2)

Underwear consisted of a shirt and pants, which were worn under the dress. The shirt had a loose fit, was open in front, and lined with buttons and loops along the edges. Champar pants were made from chintz or linen. Their cut was similar to the cut of men's pants. The difference was that the trouser legs were made very short, they did not exceed 40 cm in length.

In addition, the Teleut national costume includes the telen - the light outerwear of the Teleuts, which is a short caftan, tailored to the waist, with a low collar. The calf is sewn from woolen fabric or satin in black, blue colors, they also use Boston, and the calf is lined with velvet.

Another type of outerwear is ochkor - a silk robe with lining. The length of the robe is ankle-length, fastens with 1 button. Married women wore a robe over a fur coat.

Warm outerwear was varied. In the 1940s, a warm quilted sleeveless “bathing jacket” was very rare; by now it has been almost universally forgotten. It was worn by girls and young women. They sewed a swimsuit from red calico with a cotton lining. They wore it wrapped around the left hem, fastening it in the middle with 1 button.

Teleducks also have very beautiful coats - tone. Tone is winter clothing made of sheepskin, sable, red fox, squirrel, topped with Boston and trimmed along the hem, sleeves, and sides with otter fur. Among the Teleuts, otter fur was considered valuable and the most wearable fur; it was fastened with 1 button. (Appendix 4)

In cool weather, women and men wore syrmal. Syrmal is a demi-season quilted coat, covered with silk on top, with a bright colored lining, stuffed with cotton wool, trimmed along the cuffs of the sleeves, hem and sides with velvet. The length of the syrmal was shorter than the shirt. They gird the syrmal with a sash. (Appendix 3)

Due to the fact that the Teleuts had a custom that prohibited a married woman from appearing bareheaded in front of her father-in-law and her husband’s older brothers, even at home, headdresses played an important role in her life. The hat is a festive headdress. The hat was cut from four wedges, decorated with gold and silver braid, which was sewn onto the seams; a braid in the shape of the letter “P” was sewn on the front and back. The lower edge of the hat was trimmed with otter and even sable fur. (Appendix 8) The inside of the hat is lined with young lamb fur. The top of the hat was folded to the right when put on. Another type of holiday hat - tagaya - had a round shape, the base was made of fabric, quilted, and embroidered with gold thread. The lapel was trimmed with velvet. On the top of the head there was a brush of red or blue flowers. Red represents the sun, blue represents the sky. This type of hat dates back to the 19th century.

A headscarf is an everyday and festive headdress for Teleducks. Large woolen scarves are especially prized. The scarf was tied in different ways. First, it was folded in half diagonally, one corner was placed on the back, the other two were tied in a knot at the back of the head, or thrown over the forehead and twisted into a tourniquet. (Appendix 9)

As for footwear, Teleut fashionistas wore leather shoes (charyk) with soft soles, with an insole, and without heels. The shoes were decorated with embroidery. The top of the shoe was dark in color, the sole was light. (Appendix 7)

Teleut women loved jewelry. The most common decorations were earrings and hair ornaments - small braids decorated with shells. Ribbons, shells, rings, and coins were woven into the braids. In a woman's costume, braided jewelry is an important element.

Over the course of two centuries of contact between Teleuts and Russians, great changes took place in their homes, clothing, and way of life. The men's national costume has completely fallen out of use. Teleut men began to dress the same as Russians. High boots, blue or white, linen trousers with a drawstring near the stomach, white or colorful shirts made of homespun linen to the knees, sheepskin fur coats or kaftans of Russian cut. Pointed hats were worn. Unlike men's clothing, traditional women's clothing was preserved among middle-aged and older Teleduts and as wedding clothing among young people. All this gives hope that Teleut clothing will not disappear soon.

1. 2. Shor national costume

The Shors are forest settled tribes who previously lived isolated from each other along the valleys of numerous mountain rivers and tributaries. They are skilled hunters and fishermen. The Russians called them Kuznetsk Tatars - for their ability to smelt iron and make weapons, cauldrons, axes and other objects from it. From them came the name of our region - Kuznetsk land. The Shors mainly live in the Tashtagol region and Gornaya Shoria.

The clothing of the Shors was less sophisticated than that of the Teleuts. The material used was mainly kendyr canvas, which women wove from hemp fibers on a homemade loom. Clothes were made by hand, mainly from purchased materials. Women's clothing was richly decorated with embroidery. There was no special ritual or festive clothing. The traditional clothing of the Shors consisted of a shirt-dress (kunek), trousers (pants), an apron (shabur), hats and shoes.

The shirt dress could be of various colors, most often blue or black. For its manufacture, chintz, calico, and satin were used. It was girded with a sash (of chickens) with keys to barns and boxes tied to it. In cold weather, this type of clothing was worn under a robe, and in the summer it was the only clothing. At the end of the 19th - first half of the 20th centuries, with the advent of purchased underwear, such a shirt began to serve as a dress. The dress was most often long, reaching to the toes, and fastened at the chest with small buttons. The hems of the dress were trimmed with ribbons of black material. The dress was sewn using wedges in the cut. (Appendix 10) An apron was put on over the dress. Shor dresses have five types, identified on the basis of museum collections in the cities of Tashtagol, Tomsk, Omsk, Kemerovo, Novokuznetsk.

1 type The traditional Shor shirt, length to the toes, was sewn with oblique side gussets from the armhole to the hem.

Type 2 By the beginning of the 20th century, with the penetration of urban culture into Shor life, dresses with a fitted silhouette, turn-down collars, frills, and ruffles appeared.

Type 3 The Teleut culture influenced the clothing of the Shors living near Kuznetsk. Thus, Shor women’s shirts made from purchased fabrics completely replicate the cut of Teleut ones.

Type 4 Ethnocultural contacts with the Khakass contributed to the appearance of Shor shirts for men and women with shoulder pads, of Khakass cut.

Type 5 Under the influence of the Russian old-timer population and immigrants from the northern provinces of Russia, elements characteristic of clothing of the Northern Russian type appear in traditionally cut shirts. The sleeve at the top and at the cuffs gathers into small folds. The hem above the wide frill is decorated with a wide ribbon.

Women's pants were practically no different from men's, they were only slightly shorter. Their cut was similar to the cut of pants of other Turkic tribes of the Mongol peoples of Siberia.

The outerwear of the Shors was limited to a short canvas robe. It was both festive and everyday clothing of the Shors. The robe had a tunic-like cut, oblique wedges were sewn into the sides, the sleeves were wide, tapered towards the hands. A woman's robe was sometimes enlivened with embroidery more abundantly than a man's robe. It was trimmed along the hem and sleeve cuffs with the simplest rectilinear or curvilinear ornament. The robe had no lining. (Appendix 11) He, like the dress, had chickens. The smell of the robe was left-handed. Sometimes multi-colored pieces of fabric and buttons were sewn to the shelves at chest level. Women's clothing was decorated with embroidery from narrow strips of fabric along the cuffs, hem and left side, which covered the right side when putting on a robe. The stripes were made in the form of straight and zigzag stripes. The gates were sometimes tightly lined with rows of cowrie shells. Dresses and robes were decorated with various collars, some of which resemble the collars of Teleut dresses. The collar - moidrak, chaga or chola - is the main and only decoration of the shabyr. It is a strip of black cloth or corduroy, with a stand-up collar that goes down to the chest. The collars were embroidered with garus or wool of two or three colors, mainly red and yellow. They were decorated with mother-of-pearl buttons or rhombuses made of beads or birch bark.

The headdresses of the Shors were mainly borrowed from the Russians. They were both purchased and homemade - from homemade canvas, leather or birch bark. Headdresses are represented by two types of hats, shawls and scarves. Now there are two types of hats. (Appendix 12.15) The first type is made of black satin with a flat top. The band is made of one piece of trapezoidal fabric, widened at the top, and the front part is pushed forward overhangingly. The bottom and top of the band are decorated with stripes of colored chintz. Puus calico ribbons are sewn to the back bottom of the band. The second hat has a rounded crown, the fur outside is lined with green velvet. A strip of homespun canvas is sewn along the edge. At the beginning of the 20th century, Shor women tied their heads with a scarf (plat), folded in half at an angle, with the ends tied at the back of the head. The scarf was often red and yellow.

The shoes of the Shors were boots or slippers (charyk). Leather boots (oduk, charyk) with long tops, which the poor made from kendyr, were also used. (Appendix 15) Instead of foot wraps, the legs were wrapped in soft sedge grass. At the beginning of the 20th century. Shor fashionistas switched to store-bought, factory-made shoes.

Winter clothing shorok consists of sheepskin short fur coats, kaftans or fur coats (ton) or chyncha. Women's belts looked exactly the same as men's.

Women's costume was enlivened with homemade or purchased jewelry - ear, braid, neck, forehead, as well as rings and rings. The materials used were beads, cowrie shells, copper wire, wool and silk threads, buttons, silver coins, horsehair, etc.

Ear jewelry. Among them, first of all, earrings with pendants made of threads of beads, cowrie shells and silver stand out. In addition, there were pendants made of woolen threads woven into thin cords, with tassels, beads and buttons at the ends.

Shor women braided their hair into two braids, the ends of which were connected by several rows of beads that hung freely in a chain below the waist. Braids were also woven into the braids, made of horsehair and studded with cowrie shells, beads, and small copper bells. Several strands of beads were placed around the neck. (Appendix 17)

The peculiarities of the traditional clothing of the Shors are explained by their way of life associated with hunting, sedentary cattle breeding, primitive agriculture and a relatively low level of socio-economic development.

Since the 20th century, an active process of borrowing outerwear, hats and underwear from Russians began, which began to be worn under the influence of urban culture. (Appendix 16) The traditional costume has now been preserved almost nowhere. Only men, hunters in taiga villages, continue to wear oduk boots made from their own leather. In everyday life, they gave way to factory-made shoes: felt boots, boots, shoes, etc.

Chapter 2. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF NATIONAL COSTUMES OF SHORS AND TELEUTS

The historical ancestors of both the Shors and Teleuts are the Turks. These peoples lived in close contact for many centuries, so we see the same elements of clothing, cut, similar dresses and robes.

Upon careful analysis, we found similarities:

Use of wedges in cutting a dress;

Tunic cut of the dress;

The presence of collars;

Decoration of dresses with rhombuses made of birch bark, mother-of-pearl buttons, and beads.

Both wore scarves and hats, which differed only in color and decoration. Both peoples wore kuri belts and wore fur coats (ton) in winter. The jewelry and shoes were very similar.

But at the same time, we saw differences: in the women's national clothing of the Teleuts there is neither an apron nor a headdress - shawls, and the hats were different from the Shor ones.

We presented our observations in the form of a table.

Table 1

Comparison of costumes

Conclusion

The purpose of my work was to study the national clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.

Tasks:

1. Collect information about the folk costume of the Shors and Teleuts.
2. Identify the differences between Shor and Teleut costumes.
3. Create an album “Clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.”

I faced many difficulties. And the first was that in the city there is either no or very little literature for studying the folk costumes of the Teleuts and Shors. Therefore, we took the main material from the Internet. However, the collected material allows us to draw the following conclusions.

The historical ancestors of both the Shors and Teleuts are the Turks. These peoples lived in close communication for many centuries, so it is natural to borrow elements of clothing, cut, etc. Upon careful analysis, you can find similarities, for example: the use of wedges in the cut of a dress, a tunic-like pattern, the presence of collars, the decoration of dresses with rhombuses from birch bark, mother-of-pearl buttons, beads. Both wore scarves and hats, which differed only in color and decoration. Both peoples wore kuri belts and wore fur coats in winter. The jewelry and shoes were very similar.

The clothing of the Teleuts, in comparison with the clothing of the Shors, was distinguished by great sophistication. It was and remains very beautiful and more diverse. But we also saw that in the women's national clothing of the Teleuks there is neither an apron nor a headdress - shawls, and the hats were different from the Shor ones.

The men's national costume of the Shors and Teleuts has completely fallen out of use. At the same time, the national characteristics of Teleut women's clothing have been largely preserved, because national clothing and its elements are a kind of chronicle of the historical development and artistic creativity of the people. Each of the peoples managed to preserve their individuality and originality.

List of sources used

1. Katsyuba D.V. History of Kuzbass. Tutorial. - Kemerovo book. ed., 1983.- 9-16 p.
   

   
   

   additional education

   
   

   Kemerovo 2016

   Municipal budgetary educational institution

   additional education

   "Creativity Center of the Zavodsky District" of the city of Kemerovo

   for the city scientific competition "Junior"

   Nomination: Culture

   Shor robe "Kendyr"

   Golubeva Sofya, Zhukova Daria, 5th grade,

   creative association: “Modeling and design

   Scientific adviser:

   Voroshilova N.I., teacher

   additional education,

   MBOUDO "CT Zavodskoy district" Kemerovo

   Kemerovo 2016

   Introduction

   IN Recently, events dedicated to the traditional culture of the people have begun to be held annually in Russia. Many sacred places of the Shor people have been restored. A lot of work has been done to publish Shor folklore. But despite all this, it is still necessary to admit that the Shor people belong to the category of endangered people in our country.

   Today, the Shors are considered to be an indigenous people of Russia, and every year their numbers, unfortunately, are becoming smaller. Modern Shors are ordinary residents of Russia, who, like many other people in our country, receive an education and build a career. Some of them even hold positions as deputies in regional authorities. This, in turn, gave impetus to the fact that programs to support this small people began to be financed in Russia.

   Circles for studying the native language began to work in the cities, and Shor culture gradually began to revive. Nowadays there are many Shor ensembles that perform songs in the Shor language and traditional Shor dances. The traditional folk costumes of the Shors were also completely restored..

   At the Zavodsky District Creativity Center there is also a creative association “Design and Modeling of Clothes”, where we, together with the director, study costumes of different nationalities. We were interested in the Shor costume, and we proposed to the director to study in more detail how and from what the ancient Shors made the Shor national costume. This is how the research work “Making of the Shor robe-kendyr” arose.

   Target: Acquaintance with the national clothing of the indigenous inhabitants of Kuzbass - the Shors.

   Tasks:

   Collect information about the folk costume of the Shors - the kendyr robe.

   To make a national Shor costume - a robe-kendyr.

   Present the Shor folk costume - kendir robe.

   During our The following works were usedmethods:

   Analysis of information sources;

   Comparison;

   Generalization of the obtained data.

   Shor national costume

   The Shors are forest settled tribes who previously lived isolated from each other along the valleys of numerous mountain rivers and tributaries. They are skilled hunters and fishermen. The Russians called them Kuznetsk Tatars - for their ability to smelt iron and make weapons, cauldrons, axes and other objects from it. From them came the name of our region - Kuznetsk land. The Shors mainly live in the Tashtagol region and Gornaya Shoria.

   In works of oral folk art it is often mentioned that a prosperous person is one who has good clothes; a happy person is one who has a second set of clothes in reserve, and one who has no luck in life is one whose body is cooled by the wind through worn-out clothes.

   Among the Shors, men's and women's clothing are almost the same; they consisted of a “kunek” shirt, “pants” pants and a robe with embroidery at the collar, on the cuffs and hem. In winter, they wore several robes; the shoes of the Shors were “charyk” galoshes and “uduk” leather boots with long tops, which the poor people made from kendyr. Instead of foot wraps, the legs were wrapped in soft grass “azagat”. At the beginning of the twentieth century. Shor fashionistas switched to store-bought, factory-made shoes. Women wore scarves, men wore hats. Everyday clothing was distinguished by simplicity and expediency, while women's festive clothing was very complex, multi-component, with an abundance of various decorations, with a number of techniques for draping the figure. The multi-composition of folk clothing determines the ideal of beauty to which a woman (girl) corresponds in the folk environment, i.e. clothes form her plastic image. Everyday dresses are made of chintz, satin, flannel; for festive dresses they use expensive silks, decorating them with plain stripes of a different material. These products are rich in color.

   The outerwear of the Shors was limited to a short canvas robe. It was both festive and everyday clothing of the Shors.

   Dressed for hunting

   For homework

   For a walk, in the garden,

   And they wore it all year round.

   One of the most ornamented products was women's clothing, robes “kendyr”, named after the plant from whose fibers the fabric was made. Women weavedkendyrny canvas made from hemp fibers on a homemade loom. The fabric was quite rough, but lasted a long time. The robes were cut out to be more voluminous; their body consisted of two rectangular panels, bent in half along the shoulder line; the sleeves were cut out in a rectangular shape and sewn directly to the base without an armhole. Below the sleeves, trapezoidal wedges were sewn, widening towards the bottom, which ensured comfort when walking.

   Robe This one is sewn without lining and knee length. It wraps up when belted, but is also worn wide open. All sewing operations were performed by hand. The fabric was cut out with a sharp knife and sewn together using an awl and a needle with strong kendyr threads. For embroidery, the threads were dyed to obtain different colors using the foliage of flowers, their roots and flowers. Let’s say tansy flowers were used to obtain yellow color, kandyka roots were used for red. The collars of the robes consisted of two rectangular strips of fabric, the corners were rounded and trimmed with piping, and an ornament of geometric elements in the form of a zigzag was embroidered on the collar, where two zigzag lines are depicted intersecting each other, thus forming rhombuses. Among the Shors, the rhombus is associated with objects of nature that are classified as revered. The edges of the shelves of the robe were trimmed with finishing fabric, and the ornaments might not match in their

   motifs with collar decor. The ornament on the shelves of the robe included arch, zigzag, and circle motifs. The circle element is quite widely represented in the decorative art of the Shors. The circle means integrity, unity, continuity, dynamics and cyclicality of human life, the sign of the sun and the full moon. An arc or arch, which is essentially half a circle, is correspondingly close to it in semantics - both are a reflection of the cult of heavenly bodies. On the cuffs of the sleeves one of the Shors' motifs was embroidered - a zigzag with a loop in the bend, as an element of the symbol of the revered mountain with a luminary at the top. An indispensable element of the Shors' costume, which was decorated, were belts. Just like the collars of the belts, they were double-layered, the decor consisted of an ornament of zigzags and sewn buttons; the buttons, due to their round shape, were carriers of protective semantics. Such belts were not tied at the waist, but covered it with a wide strip and were fastened with buttons and air loops.Kimeeva, 1994.

   A married woman should not walk around with her head uncovered, even at home, so as not to appear in this form to her husband’s older relatives and not to break the old custom. The head was tied with a scarf, folded into a triangle, one corner falls on the back, and the other two are tied at the back of the head with a knot; the scarf is usually chintz with a pattern measuring 80*90cm or 65*86cm.

   Fig1.Shorsky national

   costume

   Red and yellow colors predominated in the pattern of scarves. Women's costume was enlivened by homemade or purchased jewelry - ear, neck, forehead, as well as rings and rings. The materials used were beads, cowrie shells, copper wire, woolen silk threads, buttons, silver coins, horsehair, etc.

   Married women braided their hair in two braids, the ends of which were connected by several rows of beads that hung loosely in a chain below the waist. Unmarried girls braided their hair in one (three-five-seven) braids (an odd number of braids was required).
   

   The girls' braids ended with a bone decoration "chincha" - plaits woven from horsehair, tied with threads with beads, cowrie shells, silver coins and small copper bells. The entire decoration is made very firmly and carefully; when walking, the decorations emit a peculiar ringing sound. These ringing elements were designed to scare away evil spirits. Kimeeva, 1994

   Shor women wore several strands of beads around their necks. The wealthy wore a “monchug” necklace made of three rows of beads of different colors around their necks.

   Ear jewelry is considered to be earrings with pendants made of threads of beads, cowrie shells and silver coins.

   “Yzyrga” earrings are made of copper wire, which is bent into a spiral of five to six turns and the free end, bent in the form of a hook, is threaded into the hole of the earlobe.

   The peculiarities of the traditional clothing of the Shors are explained by their way of life associated with hunting, sedentary cattle breeding, primitive agriculture and a relatively low level of socio-economic development.
   

   Fig 2. “Yzyrga” earrings

   Since the twentieth century, an active process of borrowing from Russian outerwear, hats and underwear began, which began to be worn under the influence of urban culture. The traditional costume has now been preserved almost nowhere.
   

   Only “uduk” boots made from their own leather continue to be worn by male hunters in taiga villages. In everyday life, they gave way to factory-made shoes: felt boots, boots, boots, etc.

   Fig 3. Shor boots “uduk”

   Manufacturing technology of the Shor robe “Kendyr”

   To make the national Shor robe, the following materials were needed:

   1.Gabardine fabric

   2. Braid - loach

   3.Sewing machine

   4.Ironing board, steam iron.

   5.Hand needle No. 3, pins, scissors, thimble.

   6. Cotton threads No. 40 - for machine work, No. 60 - for hand work.

   7. Measuring tape, cutter's ruler, chalk.Appendix 1, Fig. 3.

   3. Product manufacturing sequence

   In order to sew such a robe, we made a pattern.

   Transferred the pattern details onto the fabric.

   We made a cut.

   We started sewing the product.

   The ornament was embroidered on the collar, placket, cuffs and belt using braid.

   We sewed the finished parts of the collar and trims to the front of the robe, and finished the edges with bias tape.

   The back neckline was finished with a facing.

   The shoulder seams were sewn.

   The finished cuffs were sewn to the sleeves, then the sleeves were sewn to the base.

   Oblique wedges were inserted into the side seams.

   The bottom of the product was hemmed.

   The belt has been processed.

   After all the work was completed, the product was cleaned (cut all threads) and WTO (wet heat treatment.)

   Conclusion

   The purpose of our work was to study the national clothing of the indigenous people of Kuzbass.

   As a result of our research, we learned a lot about the Shor people from information sources. We collected information about the folk costume of the Shors and made a Shor kendyr robe.

   We faced many difficulties. And the first was that in the city there is either no or very little literature for studying the folk costumes of the Shors. Therefore, we took the main material from the Internet. We also received assistance from Tatyana Ivanovna Kimeeva, Candidate of Cultural Studies, Associate Professor of the Department of Museum Studies, Head of the Ethnography Department of the Museum “Archaeology, Ethnography and Ecology of Siberia” of KemSU. She provided us with information about the history of the Shor costume, we attended a master class where students of the Faculty of History and International Relations demonstrated the creation of women's jewelry (yzyrga earrings).

   We took a sample of an exhibition women's robe from the KemSU Museum as the basis for our product.

   As a result of our work, we made a Shor kendir robe.

   Bibliography

   Kimeeva, T.I. Clothes, shoes and jewelry of the Shors [Text]/ T.I. Kimeeva, V.M. Kimeev // Shor collection. Historical, cultural and natural heritage of Mountain Shoria. -Kemerovo. Kuzbassvuzizdat, 1994.

   . – Literature History and Culture of Kuzbass. Shors.

   . – Indigenous peoples of the North. Shors.

   Annex 1

   
   
   

   Fig. 1, 2. Shor robe “Kendyr”

   
   

   Fig 3. Cutting a Shor robe